Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Munich, Germany to Salzberg, Austria
Up at a leisurely pace, had breakfast at the hotel, Jan went up to the room and I down to the desk to pay, then back to the room, then both of us out the door and up the street to the Hauptbahnhof. Tickets in hand, we headed for track number 9 which both the train signs and our ticket indicated that we would use to board the train for Salzberg. We were about a half hour early so we were feeling pretty happy with ourselves as we sat in the morning sunshine waiting for the train. About six others were there early too, waiting, like us. Then out of nowhere, a guy in a train uniform came hurrying up to us waving his arms and telling us to go to track 15, there has been a change. Ok, we walk the hundred yards back to the main platform, turn left and walk along a few tracks and we are there. We have learned that lesson now, wait until you see the train posted on the main sign boards before going to the train track number, no matter what it says on the ticket.
The ride itself was easy to take, but a bit crowded. We have hit spring break, and there are kids everywhere though they are all well behaved. The train was a regional one, sort of like a bus in that it stopped at every station. The train alternately emptied and filled, people standing in the aisles between some stops and empty seats between others. Jan and I sat, watching the world go by, all the shapes and sizes of people and places and things. Pretty countryside, green and hilly, white houses and red roofs in the farms, towns, and cities. Further ahead of our travel, in the distance ahead and to the right, we saw the mountains of the western part of the Austrian alps. Lovely, but all of our distance travelled was in an area of rolling hills.
We saw several of the 'boar houses' along the way in the fields and the borders of wooded areas. These, Sonja had told us in Furth, were intended as refuges for hikers who were being assaulted by wild boars. Interesting, attack pigs are not a common North American issue. The little houses are also used as hunting blinds, hiding the hunter from their quarry. Much more practical. I sure would not want to be chased by anything at all, then run up the shakey ladder steps to the little hut above.
Arrival at Salzberg about 2 hours after our journey began in Munchen. We piled out of the train to find a hauptbahnhof under construction with temporary walkways and exits all over the place. For the first time on the Euro rail system, we got lost and couldn't find the exit from the station. We tried one elevator but it just led us from one track to another, so back again, down and up, and we finally found the way out. Confusion continued then, having found our way to street level we couldn't find the tourist information kiosk. A Japanese student tour had arrived in another coach, and they milled about in similar confused mass. Finally, after asking at a Ramada Inn, we got to the temporary tourist bureau. There, we got the expected help and assistance, and a hotel booking. The last part of this 'lost journey' was a long detour in the wrong direction trying to find the hotel and the 'altstadt'. Finally, after my trying to make the tourist bureau directions fit the landscape and it just not working, Jan asked a passerby who then turned us around 180 degrees and set us in the right direction. Ten minutes later we were at the hotel, the Marcus Sitticus, after some Roman General of old I suppose.
We checked in, dropped the bags, and headed out to eat a late lunch. We found some neat sidewalk restaurants on Franz Joseph street, two blocks from our hotel, and were soon happy with our lunch in the sunshine.
Then a short walk to the Mirabel Gardens, about three blocks. Absolutely stunning, as you see from Jan's pictures below. So, so pretty, pansies and tulips and many others in full bloom and the air filled with their perfume. We sat on benches, took pictures, wandered, sat again, took pictures, watched the other tourists, and just enjoyed the warm sunshine and gorgeous setting of the once private gardens of former Austrian royalty.
Moved on, reluctantly, toward the castle/fortress in the distance in the heart of the 'altstadt' or old city. Walking slowly, we passed Mozart's birth place, another building where he lived in his early years, a concert hall where he performed his early works, and many old and well preserved buildings. Across a bridge over the Salz River, which stopped us cold.
We have travelled a lot now in Europe, and seen a lot of pretty sights. But the combination of the late afternoon light and the castles and spires and the river and the hills and the colors just froze me on that bridge. Looking up the river or down, the sight was magical. Words fail me but the memory remains, as do the images below. They are a selection from over one hundred taken of that river on that day.
Finally, over the bridge and into the old town, with its Rathaus and Ratskeller and squares and quaint winding streets. And always, that enormous castle and fortress looming above. The market, in full swing on our arrival, was winding down and moving out of the main squares of the town, and the horse and carriage business was thinning out finally, Jan and I will do that tomorrow as well as the castle tour. Today, finally visually satieted after gorging our senses on the beauty of the gardens and buildings and presence of the old town, we went to find some dinner as well, which we did at the Wildmann Gasthaus which is a favorite of locals and tourists alike. Around us we heard Italian, German, and French, but no English throughout our dinner of traditional Austrian fare and beer for me, wine for Jan.
At last too full of sights and sounds and food to do anything but stagger the short distance home, we headed out but were stopped again by the evening photo opportunities of that marvelous bridge.
Home at last, fell into bed, asleep as we turned out the lights.
