Sunday, Jan 31, 2010



Had a superb breakfast today when we woke up in Santiago de Compostella, we are staying in a really nice hotel and everything from the accomodation to the food is absolutely top level. We checked out at about 11:45am, fifteen minutes before the deadline, it was too lovely to leave early. Then we drove to the city center, parked in an underground parking lot (it costs, but the streets were full, full, FULL), and then followed the guidebook's recommended tour. That went really well, I'm glad we came to this little city to see the sights. Part of the sights was the Cathedral de Saint Iago de Compostella. It is a big deal, as the crypt that is under the altar contains the bones or remains or whatever of St. James. He was a big deal (is a big deal?) in the Catholic faith. We blundered in at the end of Mass today. Know what?? - the average age among the cathedral pew-sitters is about 95 years old. As usual, I exagerate. I don't know the average age, but it is a lot closer to 95 than 45, that's for sure. A lot closer. There were NO young people there, all old men and women. The church is dying, maybe dead, as the current older generation dies out. I know that they have more money than god, no doubt, but if you don't stay relevant and capture the hearts of the young then you are dead if your game is religion. Now, I'm not saying you need to go the '40 virgins if you go out with a bomb' route like Islam, but you have got to get to the young minds somehow. And they ain't doing it, at least in Santiago de Compostella. And note that this church was built in 1035, that's a long time ago. And it was fully active through the Spanish Inquisition, and the Witch Hunts of the Middle Ages, so this place was really Happening as far as church history was concerned. It was the center of all that was righteous and holy as far as the Catholic faith was concerned. And now it is dying from lack of interest on the part of the young. What a terrible thing, time to stoke up the fires again, make religion the spectator sport that it was when the Inquisition was in full bloom. That'll bring them back to the pews again, surely.

Don't get me started, I am so upset by the evils perpetrated by organised religion of all stripes. Most faiths teach that the faithful should, one way or another, treat others as you would like to be treated. But religion is not that faith, or those teachings. Religion is the BUSINESS of faith, cathedrals and mosques are the bastions of religion, and religion is about power, the practice of power, the getting and keeping and the use of power in the interest of the preservation of the religion. And if that kills or hurts people, too bad, the religion is preserved and that's all that matters. The end justifies the means. Think about it, Catholicism, Protestantism, Lutheranism, Judaeism, and the Muslim faith. Hate is taught, others that are not of our faith, they are different so shun them. Don't assimilate into another religion, remain separate, and if they get too close and threaten our religion then kill them. Those are not the teachings of Moses, Jesus, or Mohammed, or any prophet. Those are the principles of the National Socialist Party of Germany, circa 1933. Or of George W. Bush or any petty dictator. To those that I have offended by this rant, my sincere apologies. I am so upset by the injustices perpetrated through the years, supposedly in the name of mercy and goodness. Islam and Catholicism fought it out for generations in Spain, and the losers were the innocents on either side as the two religions battled, led by warrior popes and the Islamic equivalent. They fought and killed each other over which religion would dominate. If the flock was decimated, who cared as long as the religion held sway and dominated. That's not the practice of goodness, or faith. That's a nation fighting its neighbor.

Ah, so, what's the issue then, why am I so upset? There is a precedent, people and countries fight, clans fight, nations fight, don't they? Sure, but the politicians and the generals don't claim to be fighting over goodness, whose god is most righteous, they fight over economic or territorial gains. And when religion does the same, they should forsake their right to preach goodness and mercy and forgive thy enemy and all that doctrine that is made a lie when religious leaders sink to the level of petty dictators. As all major religions have done, throughout all their many crusades, throughout the ages.

If I'm wrong, mistaken, misguided, whatever, please somebody send me an email and set me straight. I promise that I won't rant like this again, even though the path that we intend to take will lead us through Spain and France to Avignon (!!), thence to Italy and beyond, everywhere touched by the religious wars of the ages. But I'm done with it now, I promise.

A short driving day today, only two hours. We have made it from Santiago de Compostella to Viana do Castelo. We quit early today as this lovely seaside fishing villiage is a recommended stop in Jan's guidebooks. With good reason. We found a hotel, with Hal's help. This is the first time we have clicked the 'Points of Interest' key and then clicked the 'Lodgings' key, but Hal came up with a winner. Not really fancy like last night, but clean and simple and only 50 Euro including breakfast. But no internet, the thing broke and it is Sunday night, after all, so no techies to do the work.

After we checked in we were off to a local shopping center to get some wine. Now you know me, I'm not an overly critical person. Well, hardly ever. But tonight is one of those nights. I swear, the shopping center experience took me back years and years, to Port Alberni days. It looked like the whole night shift from the sawmill, and their wives and kids, were at the mall. It was the lunch-bucket brigade for sure, days of stubble on their chins and bellies hanging over their belts. And that was the wives, your should have seen the guys, they were really rough. The teen-agers were a real train-wreck, spiked hair and piercings, and jeans so low on their hips that one false move would send them to their knees. Not the teenagers, their pants.

Funny thing is, back in the day (except for the piercings) that was me. Man, I am getting so old and grumpy. Lucky I'm kidding about all this.

After the mall experience, Jan and I hiked about the town looking for a place to have dinner. Found one eventually, filled to the brim with the after-church bunch. Just as we got there, they all wrapped up and started to depart. I wondered for a while, sniffed my armpits to see if I forgot my deodorant this morning, but no it was just that church was over and the snack was done and it was time to head home for the locals. We had our dinner, which was excellent, and then we also departed. Back to our room, called the girls and chatted for a while, then to bed. Jan is reading for a few minutes while I type this, then we're both going down early.

Breakfast is at 8:00am so we'll be showered and have the car packed by then. We're off to points south tomorrow. We were going to stop at Lisbon, but have decided not to as we have already spent a day there less than a year ago on the cruise. It was lovely, and I'm sure it still is, but I don't know what we would do differently the second time around, so we'll go in search of other adventures.

Goodnight.